ふぐを食べた! - I Ate Fugu!

First of all, I know the formatting and fonts are weird in this post, but it won't let me fix it for some reason, so I'm sorry about that...

Last week my friend Matt and I were in the pub in Kichijoji, and we thought it would be an excellent idea to get some drunken munch on the way out. Not in the mood for a kebab, ramen or gyoza, we headed up the street to a fugu restaurant.

For those of you who don't know what fugu is, it's a fish. But not just any fish; it's notorious for being fatally poisonous when not prepared properly, and known as Pufferfish in English. For a brief overview of the consequences of a chef incorrectly preparing it, I've taken this delightful extract from fugu's Wikipedia page: Fugu contains lethal amounts of the poison tetrodotoxin in the organs, especially the liver, the ovaries, and the skin. The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious along with causing paralysis. The victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation. There is no known antidote.

Lovely.

Waiting for the fugu to arrive

After being seated at our table, we waited anxiously for our first course to come. Whilst generally the only people who die from eating fugu are untrained fishermen who catch and eat it without realising what is, and we knew that really we'd be fine as fugu chefs have to go through several years of tough training to be allowed to prepare it, we couldn't help but be a bit nervous, what with it having such a reputation. 

The first thing to arrive was a large plate of fugu sashimi (thin raw strips). I didn't take a photo of it as we'd already devoured most of it before I even thought to, but I did get a couple of photos of Matt and I  about to tentatively take our first bites.

It was really really delicious. I definitely recommend it! It's hard to describe the taste, though. The texture is like most fish, maybe a bit tougher, and the taste was light at first, but strong in the aftertaste (but not like mackerel). See how it's hard to describe? That's not helpful at all, is it. Moving on...

The second course was some more fugu meat (some of which was still twitching on the plate...), fugu skin (remember how apparently that has poison in it..?) and lots of vegetables and mushrooms to put into a hot pot which had been placed on a heater in the centre of the table, as well as other salad-y bits on the side. Along with that we got some different dipping sauces, and even deep-fried fugu!

Eating the skin made my lips tingle a little bit, which was a worry as I'd heard that that was one of the first effects of poisoning, but it turns out that apparently that's the intended effect. Yay. Everything was really delicious, and not as expensive as I'd heard. Matt and I split all of that, and it was under 2,000 yen each. I really do recommend it. If anyone's interested in going there, I don't remember the name of the restaurant, but if you leave from the Park Exit of Kichijoji Station and turn right, it's a couple of hundred metres up that street, on the left. You can't miss it; there's a huge tank of fugu swimming around on display outside. Even if you don't live near Kichijoji, there's bound to be somewhere selling fugu near to you. If you're reading this from the UK, sorry but fugu is completely banned in the EU!

Next time I eat something strange and delightful I'll be sure to write another blog post! The next one will be about my travels this Spring break, I'll hopefully get it done soon, but I'm very busy with revision at the moment; my big Leeds exam is in three weeks today!! D:

James

My 20th Birthday in Japan

Yesterday was my 20th birthday! It's quite an important age in Japan; basically the equivalent of the UK's 18.  It was strange to come over in August and revert back to legally being a child, but now I've caught up again!  20's also the legal drinking age in Japan, but as a foreigner I never get asked for ID so not a lot will change there...

To celebrate, a group of friends and I went out to Kichijoji.  We started off at the Hub British Pub to catch the end of Happy Hour there, which is 5-7.  We ended up arriving at about 6:45, so ordered about 6 drinks to each of us whilst they were still cheap!  The Japan vs Tajikstan match was on the TVs, and the pub was full of lairy supporters, which did give it a good atmosphere!  Although I don't see how the Japanese can be so into football when their national team is so RUBBISH.  Anyway, we stayed there until about 8, when our drinks ran out.

By 8 o'clock we were all getting pretty hungry, so we went to an izakaya for some grub and more drinks.  We had a whole room to ourselves, with a big, long table for us all to sit round.  The table was traditionally low to the floor, and we sat on tatami mats.  The horrifying realisation that I would have to sit cross legged and lose all feeling in the lower half of my body hit me just before I noticed that there was space underneath the table to put your legs, just like a normal chair - phew!

The food and drinks kept coming throughout.  Without realising it, I ate whale and horse.  Hmm.  The whale (in sashimi form) was extremely fishy; not too sure if I liked it.  The horse was also in sashimi form; raw, with soy sauce to dip in.  Unfortunately all I could taste was the bed of sliced onions it was sat on, but I guess the texture was nice!  Just like a (very) rare steak!  There was plenty of other gorgeous food; I think I may have eaten my own body weight in gyoza. Mmmmm yummy.

The original plan for after the izakaya was to go on to a bar somewhere and have some more drinks, but we ended up staying for hours, and getting very drunk, and also people started having to get off home, so we called it a night!  Naturally, we had the usual encounter with drunk Japanese people on the way to the station, including two who liked to tell me I was very cool.

People were kind enough to pay for me, so it was certainly the cheapest night out in Tokyo I've had yet!  I should have birthdays more often!  Thank you everyone :) The TUFS lot also got me a couple of presents!  Certainly wasn't expecting that!  They got me some chocolate called Horn (no jokes, please, Kieran's already made them all), and a book!  I gave them to Max to put in his bag as I didn't have one with me, but he then disappeared into the night after popping to buy some fags in between Hub and the izakaya and wasn't to be seen again.  I guess I'll get them back off him on Monday at ICU then!

I've also been getting some birthday post at home!  So far I've got cards from my grandparents and parents, and a fair few other people have stuff en-route to me, and some relatives have put money in my account, too :) with the card, my parents sent me these amaaazing slouchy pants that Mum and Ayu picked out for me :) I love them so much - I really wanted some nice slouchies and these are just the sort of things I was after!  They're warm and soft and mmmm :)

Sally was also sweet enough to leave me a little birthday surprise!  I opened my bedroom door on Friday morning to go brush my teeth, and there was little bag waiting outside with a beer and a handmade card inside!  That was a nice start to my birthday morning :)  I put the card along side the other ones I've received so far, and had the beer before meeting everyone in Kichijoji that evening!

I love the 3D meerkat card from Mum & Dad hehe

Thus concludes my birthday!  It was a very fun day :) although, I did have exams in the morning...I'll make a proper exam post when I've finished them all next week, though.  It's a very strange feeling not to be a teenager any more! I really don't feel like a twenty-something :s

James

The British Pub in Kichijoji & More 飲み放題

I shall first of all point out that I am NOT the type of person who moves to a foreign country simply to spend all my time mingling with English people in British pubs!!  I'd discovered the existance of this British pub in nearby Kichijoji from Miles, a Leeds student who studied at ICU a couple of years ago, and decided that I wouldn't mind having a look in, and see how they interpret our culture!

So yes, the other night, Melissa and I went for a drink there.  Many other people were invited but couldn't make it in the end, tsch.  As we walked in, Trash by Suede came on the stereo, and I liked it already.  Babyshambles and Pulp also featured on the stereo during our visit, in amongst some less tasteful and appropriate music.  Blink 182 are not welcome in such an establishment.

 

 

Remember what I said about my indoor photography abilities?

The interior wasn't too bad!  Obviously it was a little exaggerated and stereotyped, but the general atmosphere was there.  The furniture was varnished oak like back home, and it was nicely dingy.  They even had the Stoke-Liverpool match ont' telleh.

We went during happy hour, but unfortunately there was no lager on the happy hour menu, just a choice of cocktails.  It was very strange to see everyone in the British pub sat sipping bright pink and green cocktails.  Still, I'm not going to complain about the choice of drinks when it was £2 for a double Gin & Tonic.

There was a food menu with lots of traditional and contemporary British and European dishes, but I'd decided before I'd even stepped through the door that I'd be going for good old Fish and Chips.  Being not only from Britain, but specifically from Yorkshire, their ability to do a good plate of Fish and Chips was the deal breaker as to whether I'd be returning or not; the true test of their ability to replicate a crucial bit of Blighty.  Luckily, they certainly delivered!  Whilst not precisely what I'm used to, it was pretty damn close, and much more authentic than what I'd heard from people's anecdotes. 

 

Mmm the fish.  I'm not sure whether it was cod, or haddock, or whatever, but it really hit the spot.  The chips were delicious, too.  I liked the fact it was served in faux-newspaper, too; so authentic that we don't even do that in the UK any more.  Well I never got ink poisoning from when my Fish and Chips used to get wrapped up in The Yorkshire Post.

So a very good experience, all in all!  I'd give it a good solid 7/10!  Plus points for the decor, Fish and Chips, some good music, cheap drinks (the food wasn't too expensive, either) and the football being on.  Minus points for the lack of beer on the happy hour menu, and some pretty crap songs in between the brilliant ones.

Melissa had to go quite soon after we ate, so I headed back to Koganei, where I then met Ayaka, and we went for a 飲み放題 (nomihoudai, if you don't know what that means then tut tut you haven't been reading my blog posts) at a nearby 居酒屋, or izakaya, a traditional Japanese pub.  

I'll write a proper blog post about 居酒屋 at some point.  They're a great, authentically Japanese experience (and a good opportunity for western goldfish to abuse the all-you-can-drink offer).  You have to take your shoes off at the door and everything!

On a side-note, as we walked to the izakaya, we passed a rather interesting looking bar, with an equally interesting slogan (/health advice label?!).

I wonder how long a sign like that would last in the UK...

James

First Day in Tokyo

Sorry for the lateness in getting any posts done on here!  I've been pretty busy!  But I have managed to find some time now!  This post is only really about the flight and first day of Japan, but I'll blog about the other couple of days that I've spent here so far soon too!

So we were up at about half past four in the morning on Saturday the 27th of August, and set off an hour later to go to Manchester Airport with Mum, Dad and Ayu.  We got there at about 6 o'clock, and went to one of the Etihad check-in desks, where we met Ash.  After having a major rearrangement of my hand luggage, as it was both too big and too heavy to take on (as if they weigh hand luggage now!) I went to check my main luggage, to find it was 2kg too heavy.  £54 overweight fees later we were ready to go through the security checks and onto the plane.  As my parents and Ayu couldn't go any further, in front of the security gate was the scene of the teary goodbye I had been dreading.  Unsurprisingly, it was as bad as I'd expected it to be.  

Yes, I'm smiling there, but you have to for the camera!

I was pretty much crying whilst going through security right after saying the final goodbye, and other people in there were giving me a sort of "what's wrong with him? He's going on holiday!" look.  If only they knew!

After security we had about 15 minutes to wait before going to our gate and then getting on the plane.  Ohh, the plane. Oh dear.  Whilst the service and interactive screens we all got were good, the seats were terrible!  I've never had so little legroom on a long haul flight.  I couldn't have my legs straight, so I had cramp in my legs and achey pains in my knees because they'd been bent for so long by the time I disembarked the plane.  It was seven hours to Abu Dhabi, before we had a two hour stop over, and then the final ten hour flight on to Tokyo.  It was long, cramped, and horrible, but eventually we were there.

We arrived at about 1 o'clock in the afternoon at Tokyo Narita Aiport, actually in neighbouring Chiba (oops, I initially wrote 'in neighbouring China' by accident there, that would have been a long transfer), and booked a seat on a bus from the Airport to Kichijoji, in Western Tokyo.  It was my first chance to authentically use Japanese, and it went well!  I was pleased that we could actually understand each other!

The trip was about an hour and a half, during which time Ash and I shared an iPod and admired the Tokyo scenery.  It initially struck me as being very similar to Shanghai, as the highways around the centre are very similar, as are some of the tall buildings, and blocks of flats, but once you get into the centre the two are quite different.  

Arriving in Kichijoji, we easily found the train station, before buying a Suica Card (like an Oyster card it allows you to top it up with credit in order to travel the trains around Tokyo and Japan) and taking the Chuo Rapid Line three stops to Higashi-Koganei, the closest station to my guesthouse.  

Once in Higashi-Koganei, I used a nearby payphone to phone the guesthouse company, who came and picked us up, and took us to the Big Rose 21 guesthouse.  I signed the forms needed, paid my first month's rent and deposit, and then went up to the room to relax.  My accommodation is brilliant, and I'll have a proper post about it when I've finished setting up here.

That evening we were too tired to really do anything, so we had a look at some Japanese TV, went to buy a bento box for dinner and a couple of beers, before going to bed!  Ash has been staying with me for a few days (he's leaving tomorrow to travel around the Kansai region of Kyoto and Osaka, before heading down to his university in Fukuoka), and the guesthouse people were good enough to set up a futon on my floor for him to sleep on!

Oh, and I bought a little plant for my room as well.  His name is Albert Henry, and he is lovely.

I'll try post soon about my first few days in Japan!  Please stay tuned, my blog should actually be interesting from now on!!

Hope England's coping without me.

James